A pub is for life, not just for Christmas

10 01 2012

With the tree down, but pine needles still lacerating my bare feet, it’s the perfect time for a catch-up on festive pubgoing. Christmas and new year are fascinating times for lovers of the pub. We see our boozers heaving with happy, sociable folk, enjoying an easy journey from stranger to friend, radiant in the simple pleasure of company. Mind you, the best pubs are like that all year round, of course.

And we also see a share of once-a-year drinkers who are ready to dance naked on tabletops within a few gulps of their second pint. Or was that just the Red Deer the Friday before Christmas Eve?

Much of my yuletide pubbery in 2011 revolves around work. In recent years, as a freelance, I had only my Pretend Work Christmas Do, in which my friends and I went through the motions of the traditional office night out, without my having to have held down an actual job. In 2011 there’s a proper work Christmas do, several valedictory nights out with colleagues who were either leaving or having babies, a trip to the pub after a posh do at the vice-chancellor’s house, and the above-mentioned impromptu jaunt to the Red Deer on the last working day of the year.

Oh, and my friends insisted we retain the Pretend Work Christmas Do as well. Insisted, I tells ya.

The Noah's Ark

This centres upon a particular area of Sheffield each year. In 2011 we choose Crookes, and begin with my first ever trip to the Noah’s Ark (pictured above). It’s an old-school local, with an old-school layout, and old-school glaring white light. These stands in stark counterpoint to many other nearby pubs, and seem to issue a strong message to the the nearby student population. The message is: You won’t really like us. We won’t chase you out with blazing torches or anything. But you’d prefer it somewhere else. Give that Old Grindstone a try, eh, see who’s managing it this week.

It’s half past five on a wet Thursday in December, so nobody very much else is here. But the beer is very good (I seem to recall Bradford’s Salamander brewery featuring, though possibly not at this pub) and the warm, broad smiles of (I’m presuming) the landlady light our way out into the falling night.

Next stop is the Cobden View (pictured below), which I’ve heard great things about but never spent enough time in – about 15 minutes, I think – to find out for myself. This time I see it. The higgledy-piggledy layout is a joy, bringing to mind the Hallamshire House and the beautiful White Lion over at Heeley. We all enjoy a Great Pub Moment here too. The room we’re in is adorned with photography from around Sheffield. We can’t quite agree on the location of one shot, and the photographer’s phone number is on display, so I give him a call to ask.

“Hello? You don’t know me, but my name’s Pete and I’ve got a question about one of your pictures. There’s a group of us sitting looking at them now in the Cobden View.”

“Oh, well, I’ll come over and see you then. I’m standing in the bar at the Cobden View.”

And so he does. Nowhere could this slice of serendipity have been more fabulous than in a pub.

The Cobden View

After that we hit the Princess Royal, one of my favourite pubs in Sheffield. We seem to upset some of the locals by scoring 20 out of 20 on a music quiz, thus trousering a £50 jackpot, and then promptly doing one to spend it on a big curry. Sorry, folks. That was always the plan for the evening though. Maybe I’ll give it a month or two before showing my face again.

Among the pubs I take in during actual, proper work Christmas drinks is the Frog & Parrot. Years ago the Frog & Parrot was legendary for its Roger & Out stunt beer, so strong it was only served in one-third of a pint measures, and once memorably described by the former England cricketer Derek Pringle as “closer to anaesthetic than ale”. These days it seems distinguishable from the other vertical drinking establishments around Division Street only by its tendency to feature terrible live indie bands and set up the sound so you can only hear the vocals and drums. At least when we visit the Forum just across the road, the entire cast of This is England ‘88 are in attendance for us to stare at in starstruck wonder.

Once work is over for the year and Christmas is here, I’m busier than ever charging up and down the country visiting family. A trip to Hertfordshire is livened up with an outing to the White Horse in London Colney, where our friend Mark is doing a gig. I suspect I wouldn’t enjoy the White Horse on a regular night of the year: it’s big, and a bit posh, with overtones of Sunday carvery about it, and the only half-decent beer is London Pride. But it’s cheery enough for Christmas Eve, faces glowing in twinkly lights, acoustic guitars chiming down the minutes to midnight.

There’s an episode of Buffy the Vampire Slayer in which it emerges that ‘real’ demons and vampires will always refrain from their nefarious activities on Hallowe’en because the homage paid to them that night by humans is so irredeemably tacky. As a pub lover I tend to feel the same way about New Year’s Eve. Granted, last year I had a splendid evening in the Crooked Billet. But the last night of the year can be a hellish one, if you’re surrounded by frenzied guzzling folk dressed up for an annual parody of pubgoing.

Willy's

This year, then, visiting Cleethorpes, we give all that a miss and stay in to scowl at Jools Holland. By the time we get to Willy’s (pictured above) the following evening, 20 hours or so into the new year, there are no more fireworks seeing in 2012 with a bang, no more Chinese lanterns floating out over the Humber estuary. Increasingly there are no more people out for a drink either.

And that’s about that. Where did you go a-pubbing over Christmas and new year, friends? Did you find somewhere cosy, or was it all horrific? Post a comment below, share the cheer, and let me wish you the very best of pubgoing in 2012.





A week in pubs: w/c 20 December 2010

28 12 2010

Pub visits this week 4
Locations Sheffield, Cleethorpes

So what happens to your pubbing at Christmas? Do you dive for cover as the once-a-year drinkers colonise your most beloved boozer? Or is there a secret place you retreat to, a haven of civilisation, ale and somewhere to sit where the part-time pubgoers never reach? Do you get out on Christmas Day? All the assumptions and norms of getting to the pub can fly out of the window in this final week of the year. There may be chaos. This can often be hideous, but it can also be unexpected and occasionally kind of wonderful. Please post a comment if you have one.

University Arms

I am about to pass Thursday morning with my last-minute Christmas shopping. Last-minute Christmas shopping tends to be stressful and demanding. So it will be necessary to go and unwind afterwards by meeting some friends for lunch at the University Arms. Except it doesn’t quite work out like that. Sheffield city centre is surprisingly quiet and the shopping is all finished by half past ten, so I go and sit in the library and read for a couple of hours. None of this is remotely stressful and demanding, but I decide to go and unwind in the pub anyway.

Knots of lingering academics and workers populate the tables, a little more sparsely than usual. A sign explains that the Uni Arms needs some unforeseen refurbishment, so after Christmas Eve it’ll be closed until some time in February. That’ll be a burst pipe, will it? Just having the one beer at lunchtime is nearly always difficult, as your imagination sallies forth into an epic drinking session lasting all afternoon and most of the night. It’s even harder today because they need to sell all the stocks of cask beer before the closure, so they’re flogging them off at two quid a pint.

On Friday, Christmas Eve, my little family travels over to Cleethorpes to spend the weekend with my mum and her partner. At night the tide comes in and the looming moon reflects in the inky depths of the Humber estuary. The Kings Royal is busy, warm and festive. It’s just a shame I’m too tired and ill to enjoy it.

Willy's

I’m not the only one suffering a little weariness: on Christmas Day my girlfriend, son and two brothers are all taking a snooze and there’s ages until dinner. So I take myself off to Willy’s, my favourite pub along the seafront, and put away two swift pints of Old Groyne, a strong, heavy ale made in the microbrewery at the back of the pub. There are the usual ageing couples doing lunch, and for the most part it feels like any other Saturday afternoon here. But of a group of good-looking lads aged about 21, all are decked in itchy Christmas jumpers, and about half have brought their mums along for a yuletide sup. Their mums have made a special effort and got all nicely dressed and hairbrushed. It’s a cute old scene alright.

By Boxing Day, inevitably, we all need a stroll to shake off some of that festive fug. The Trawlerman on North Sea Lane is perfectly placed, a mile and a half from my mum’s house, south along the seafront. On paper, it ought to be OK. The service is good, there are two cask beers on, and the Christmas decorations are really pretty. But it’s exactly the sort of pub that I’d be more than happy never to set foot in again.

Why? It’s one of those pubs that are designed for families to eat Sunday roasts in. You know what it will look and feel like inside even before you enter. It will have one large room with lots of empty space. It will be bright and busy, and so lacking in character that it will feel less like the pub than a visit to MFI. It will have that particular kind of unpleasant meat smell that only arises where the word ‘carvery’ is on display. Then you go in, and you’ll find out you were absolutely right in every way, and a little piece of you will die. And the two cask beers are Pedigree and Hobgoblin. Whoopee.

The one redeeming feature here today, remarkably, is a model of a trawler made entirely from Carling cans. But if ‘family pubs’ like the Trawlerman were the only pubs families were allowed into, I’d have had a vasectomy years ago.

The Trawlerman








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