A pub is for life, not just for Christmas

10 01 2012

With the tree down, but pine needles still lacerating my bare feet, it’s the perfect time for a catch-up on festive pubgoing. Christmas and new year are fascinating times for lovers of the pub. We see our boozers heaving with happy, sociable folk, enjoying an easy journey from stranger to friend, radiant in the simple pleasure of company. Mind you, the best pubs are like that all year round, of course.

And we also see a share of once-a-year drinkers who are ready to dance naked on tabletops within a few gulps of their second pint. Or was that just the Red Deer the Friday before Christmas Eve?

Much of my yuletide pubbery in 2011 revolves around work. In recent years, as a freelance, I had only my Pretend Work Christmas Do, in which my friends and I went through the motions of the traditional office night out, without my having to have held down an actual job. In 2011 there’s a proper work Christmas do, several valedictory nights out with colleagues who were either leaving or having babies, a trip to the pub after a posh do at the vice-chancellor’s house, and the above-mentioned impromptu jaunt to the Red Deer on the last working day of the year.

Oh, and my friends insisted we retain the Pretend Work Christmas Do as well. Insisted, I tells ya.

The Noah's Ark

This centres upon a particular area of Sheffield each year. In 2011 we choose Crookes, and begin with my first ever trip to the Noah’s Ark (pictured above). It’s an old-school local, with an old-school layout, and old-school glaring white light. These stands in stark counterpoint to many other nearby pubs, and seem to issue a strong message to the the nearby student population. The message is: You won’t really like us. We won’t chase you out with blazing torches or anything. But you’d prefer it somewhere else. Give that Old Grindstone a try, eh, see who’s managing it this week.

It’s half past five on a wet Thursday in December, so nobody very much else is here. But the beer is very good (I seem to recall Bradford’s Salamander brewery featuring, though possibly not at this pub) and the warm, broad smiles of (I’m presuming) the landlady light our way out into the falling night.

Next stop is the Cobden View (pictured below), which I’ve heard great things about but never spent enough time in – about 15 minutes, I think – to find out for myself. This time I see it. The higgledy-piggledy layout is a joy, bringing to mind the Hallamshire House and the beautiful White Lion over at Heeley. We all enjoy a Great Pub Moment here too. The room we’re in is adorned with photography from around Sheffield. We can’t quite agree on the location of one shot, and the photographer’s phone number is on display, so I give him a call to ask.

“Hello? You don’t know me, but my name’s Pete and I’ve got a question about one of your pictures. There’s a group of us sitting looking at them now in the Cobden View.”

“Oh, well, I’ll come over and see you then. I’m standing in the bar at the Cobden View.”

And so he does. Nowhere could this slice of serendipity have been more fabulous than in a pub.

The Cobden View

After that we hit the Princess Royal, one of my favourite pubs in Sheffield. We seem to upset some of the locals by scoring 20 out of 20 on a music quiz, thus trousering a £50 jackpot, and then promptly doing one to spend it on a big curry. Sorry, folks. That was always the plan for the evening though. Maybe I’ll give it a month or two before showing my face again.

Among the pubs I take in during actual, proper work Christmas drinks is the Frog & Parrot. Years ago the Frog & Parrot was legendary for its Roger & Out stunt beer, so strong it was only served in one-third of a pint measures, and once memorably described by the former England cricketer Derek Pringle as “closer to anaesthetic than ale”. These days it seems distinguishable from the other vertical drinking establishments around Division Street only by its tendency to feature terrible live indie bands and set up the sound so you can only hear the vocals and drums. At least when we visit the Forum just across the road, the entire cast of This is England ‘88 are in attendance for us to stare at in starstruck wonder.

Once work is over for the year and Christmas is here, I’m busier than ever charging up and down the country visiting family. A trip to Hertfordshire is livened up with an outing to the White Horse in London Colney, where our friend Mark is doing a gig. I suspect I wouldn’t enjoy the White Horse on a regular night of the year: it’s big, and a bit posh, with overtones of Sunday carvery about it, and the only half-decent beer is London Pride. But it’s cheery enough for Christmas Eve, faces glowing in twinkly lights, acoustic guitars chiming down the minutes to midnight.

There’s an episode of Buffy the Vampire Slayer in which it emerges that ‘real’ demons and vampires will always refrain from their nefarious activities on Hallowe’en because the homage paid to them that night by humans is so irredeemably tacky. As a pub lover I tend to feel the same way about New Year’s Eve. Granted, last year I had a splendid evening in the Crooked Billet. But the last night of the year can be a hellish one, if you’re surrounded by frenzied guzzling folk dressed up for an annual parody of pubgoing.

Willy's

This year, then, visiting Cleethorpes, we give all that a miss and stay in to scowl at Jools Holland. By the time we get to Willy’s (pictured above) the following evening, 20 hours or so into the new year, there are no more fireworks seeing in 2012 with a bang, no more Chinese lanterns floating out over the Humber estuary. Increasingly there are no more people out for a drink either.

And that’s about that. Where did you go a-pubbing over Christmas and new year, friends? Did you find somewhere cosy, or was it all horrific? Post a comment below, share the cheer, and let me wish you the very best of pubgoing in 2012.





A week in pubs: w/c 22 August 2011

4 09 2011

Pub visits this week 7
Locations Grimsby, Sheffield, Manchester

This week in pubs has been a little busier than I might have anticipated, given the devastation visited on my insides by last week‘s stag weekend in Brighton. It begins on Tuesday night, at the Rutland Arms (featured here), a desolate, down-at-heel boozer on the back streets of Grimsby and the back streets of life.

The Rutland Arms, Grimsby

The Rutland Arms, Grimsby

This particular Rutland Arms, as regular readers will know, is where I go before I go to the football. Why choose such a downbeat location? Well, after an hour or two in the Rutland Arms, even Blundell Park seems cheerful. As well as that, the Rutland has a unique selling point: you can sit down and have a chat. The places nearer the ground are too busy and too noisy to do this.

Tonight, however, the pub’s new managers are continuing their project to drive away the few punters who remain, by trying to make it the same as everywhere else. In one way, of course, their enthusiasm is admirable. But you can’t help thinking that if keeping the pub alive were as simple a matter as turning the jukebox up to 11, then this solution might have been chanced upon already by one or more of the Rutland’s 94 previous managers this year.

It’s also pretty funy to hear a jukebox turned up to 11 playing ‘Those Were The Days’ by Mary Hopkin.

On Thursday there’s lunch at the West End. Pretty good it is too. The chef even comes out to talk to me after I’ve asked the barman about the ingredients. My brother pays a visit in the evening, so we head up the hill towards Crookes and the Princess Royal. I like how the music quiz here doesn’t start until 10pm: this way it doesn’t dominate the evening. Jon and I team up with a late-middle-aged couple, and I amaze all present by knowing which sport the singer out of Iron Maiden once won a bronze medal for.

There is, of course, more than one Rutland Arms in the world. The next day I pass an agreeable hour and a half in a really good one. I’m on my way to play a gig in Manchester, but first I’m having a few pints of excellent pale ale with some pals in Sheffield’s Rutland Arms (featured here, pictured below). It’s a very fine pub at any time of day or night, but there’s something about Friday after work that just fits it perfectly.

Rutland Arms

At the other end of the Hope Valley Line is the place I’m playing at: the Star & Garter, just outside Piccadilly station. It’s quite a famous small venue, on the indie circuit, for gigs and club nights. But it’s my first visit. And it’s by no means certain how to get in. The place is all dark and looks closed. Normally, at a moment like this, all my resourcefulness and independence of spirit would come right to the fore, and I’d give up and ask someone else.

Tonight, though, I’m playing solo. So, when the pub looks dark and empty and the door looks locked, I check round the back. No use. Back to the front. I’ll knock.

Someone must have been watching me on CCTV. Someone who has spent their whole life mastering and perfecting the withering, poker-faced, and utterly deadpan sarcasm that folks from these parts have down more finely than any other people on the planet.

“Walked right round the pub twice and finally decided to knock on the door. Well done. Glittering career ahead of yer.” It’s the most Manchester moment I will experience in my entire life.

Downstairs the Star & Garter has one of those tiled Victorian interiors that can feel a little austere if they haven’t been given much love. This one hasn’t been given much love. The upstairs bit, where the Kissing Just For Practice club night goes on after my set, is smashing though. Manchester never seems to me quite as friendly a place as it likes to think it is, and I feel a bit lost and out of sorts, but two or three exceptionally kind indiepop fans help me through a long, long night.

Star & Garter

I took this ropey picture of the Star & Garter the next day, from my platform at Piccadilly station, while I was waiting for my train home in the dense Manchester rain

There’s just time for a quick one back at the Princess Royal late on Saturday night, then on Sunday it’s another quiz night, this time at Fagan’s (featured here).

As a group of ten friends, split into two teams, we have quite a good night in the quiz and an excellent night in the pub. Towards the end of it, one incident sums up why both are excellent. Denied a perfect score of 20 out of 20 by a spelling mistake, our team is ready to settle for second place. Then the winners, seated at the next table along, lean over and express their disapproval of the strict marking. A spelling mistake? So unfair. They hand us half of the free pint vouchers that are their prize, and they won’t let us say no.

My teammate Sarah provides the perfect summary of this event and the perfect last word for this week in pubs. Sarah’s wife Chella is responsible for The Venns, a sort of zine/comedy/pub quiz research project (if you like Get to the pub.com, you’d love it). “Chella’s going to love hearing about this!” says Sarah. “It’s everything about pub quizzes and pubs and community and Sheffield, in a nutshell!” And nothing can be added to that.








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